“Maori for ‘gentle breeze,’ ranga.ranga is Simon and Vanessa Barker’s early-picked sauvignon, caught when just ripe. Their vineyard is near the Blind River in the Awatere Valley, a cool site close to the ocean, where the sauvignon grew deliciously crisp and zesty. The freshness of the wine feels completely natural, the acidity perfectly integrated into a flavor of lemon zest, ready to pour with fresh-shucked oysters. Here in the US, Ed Barker set up the family’s own import company, which is how they can offer this wine at the price.